Wild with Fendi, military with Max Mara, cavalier with Ermanno Scervino… The woman outlined by the Italian designers revealed all her at Milan Fashion Week. Indeed, all their creations were targeted at a metropolitan woman of strong character, as Laura Lusuardi, Max Mara’s creative mind put it.
Karl Lagerfeld signed Fendi’s breathtaking autumn-winter 2012-2013 collection, featured by masterful cuts and dizzying work upon textures. A very contemporary man, he did not betray the Italian’s label reputation of brilliantly combining luxurious furs and leather. Innovative and traditional fabrics made their way on the catwalk: boiled or felted wool, cashmere, glazed jersey, ray or shark skin whose granular pattern was repeated by Silvia Venturini Fendi’s accessories. Ancient vestals, creatures of the future or coming out of forest depths, the models spread all their energy on the catwalk, wearing vintage style boots with buttons or crossed laces. They displayed impressive medieval belts, heavy and colorful fur stoles, decorated by archaic mosaic patches made of mink and their “reptiles” leggings with false holes added value to this wild look. The crocodile skin or lamb leather dresses were split on the median line as if they had been vertically knife cut.
Max Mara opted for a very masculine look inspired by the military universe, in all its forms: aviation, navy, army. The dominant khaki tones eclipsed the black and even the golden beige. The house explored heavily the hazy harbor atmosphere to put together a disturbing marine look featured by a typical cap, worn with grace and femininity. Trousers are rolled up to the calves, hung by a pair of leather straps and worn over a striped shirt. In order to accentuate the masculine side, the leather belt was used as a leitmotif on cuffs or to close the gaiters.
Although more feminine, Ermanno Scervino’s look also referred to the military world. Helmets, khaki macramé and neoprene dresses, short jackets in boiled wool… they all bore some equestrian influences. The white riding trousers entered black leather boots with stiletto heels. The English aristocracy was reminded by the fabrics (flannel and tweed) as well as by the flared tulip dresses, worn under simple coats.
